research on the bikelist.org archives

calculate trail on various frames, compare.

i've covered a wide range to provide some reference points; some of
these bikes are nowhere close to what i'm building, but i wanted to
get the extremes.
trek 520 21": 64mm trail
surly LHT 56cm: HT 72deg., rake 45mm
surly cross-check 56mm: HT 72deg., rake 44mm
bianchi San Jose 55cm: HT 72.5deg., rake 50mm
novara randonee 55cm: HT 72, offset 5.5
Little Fish 55cm (1 & 2): HT 72.5, rake 45mm (57mm trail)
specialized allez pro 56cm: HT 73.5, 43mm (56mm trail)
apecialized sequoia 57cm: HT 72, 50mm (58mm trail)

same for chainstay length

Josh Putnam Steering Geo. printout

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/index.html

Archive-URL: http://search.bikelist.org/getmsg.asp?Filename=framebuilders.10505.0135.eml
From: "Andrew R Stewart" <onetenth@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [Frame] Tubes for touring
Date: Thu, 5 May 2005 20:14:03 -0400

Mike- Large diameter and not thin wall. I'm just a bit lighter then you are
(but prob. make up for it with pack weight) and replaced my touring bike
last year. The old had std road diameters and med. walls (.9-.6), it was a
smooth ride although the flex was disconcerting at times. Oh, it shimmied
too. The new one has only slightly more relaxed ft end geometry, a bit lower
BB and 1.-.7mm walls of still std 1" and 1 1/8" diameters. It is more solid
feeling, still is comfy (32mm tires) and while I haven't fully loaded it yet
at about 40 lbs. load is has no shimmy. If I were to do it again I think
that I'd use a 1 1/8" top tube and a 1 1/4 down tube. Even though I have
considerable loaded touring miles I have been reluctant to stray too far
from the standard road model, for better or worse. If I were bigger or going
to go even more "world tourist" I'd want a bike even stouter and dent
resistant. I've thought of straight gauge top tubes as both a stiffener and
a won't get dinged by porters idea. Andy S.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Shih" <postpetrol@yahoo.com>
To: <framebuilders@phred.org>
Sent: Thursday, May 05, 2005 5:13 PM
Subject: [Frame] Tubes for touring

> I'm new to this list and I've only built 2 frames so far. I'd like to
build a loaded touring bike based on 26x1.5 tires and made of lugged steel.
It will stay almost completely on road. I'd like some advice on tubing, lugs
and bottom bracket choices. I'm a 140 lbs and my 57cm Heron touring has
served me well and has lots of miles left. I'd like to try 26 inch wheels. I
recall wanting a Bridgestone XO-1 or Paramount touring or Trek 920 back in
the day. I like the Atlantis but it needs longer chainstays.
> thanks
>
>
> ---------------------------------
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Archive-URL: http://search.bikelist.org/getmsg.asp?Filename=framebuilders.10511.0259.eml
From: "e-RICHIE" <richardsachs@juno.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2005 14:19:23 GMT
Subject: RE: [Frame] Forks for touring bike

yeah what anvil-issino said.
e-RICHIE(c)™(r)

-- "Anvil Bikeworks" <info@anvilbikes.com> wrote:
Dave wrote:
"I just don't believe, nor has it been my experience that one has to
have a 1.125 fork or super heavy fork blades."
__________

I have to pile on with Dave & the gimp (eRichie broke some ribs so
he's a gimp) here.

If I were building a steel bike lugged bike for touring, then I'd just
use OS tubes with a 1" steerer and cyclocross fork blades with a
touring style crown. If I was going to run front panniers, then I'd
also not slacken out the HTA too much and not run too much trail, I'd
keep it in the normal road bike range (57-59mm). IMO, Panniers really
slow down the front end of the bike and the steering gets too heavy
with slack angles and big trail numbers. For frame tubes, I'd select
from the thick end of the spectrum for TT and DT's to head off shimmy
when riding loaded at speed (descending).

Cheers!
Don Ferris
Anvil Bikeworks, Inc.
Littleton, Colorado
Ph: 303.471.7533 / 303.919.9073
Fax: 413.556.6825
http://www.anvilbikes.com

-----Original Message-----
From: framebuilders-bounces@phred.org
[mailto:framebuilders-bounces@phred.org] On Behalf Of dave bohm
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2005 10:05 PM
To: 'Andrew R Stewart'; jmedlockclay@nettally.com;
framebuilders@phred.org
Subject: RE: [Frame] Forks for touring bike

I don't think I understand this totally loaded touring thing at all.

This is the standard convention to recommend massive overkill on frame
and fork, but Richie's advice would be my advice too and 1 inch fork
would be fine as would a normal fork crown.

To put this in perspective, I have had people comment about how loaded
touring puts such stresses on frames, but I weigh 225lbs in bike gear
and then have carried up to 35 additional pounds putting me at 255
with
my bike made with normal oversize tube and thicknesses. If this was
an
issue it would show here. I venture to guess that most loaded touring
riders would not even match my weight with a light load.

I just don't believe, nor has it been my experience that one has to
have
a 1.125 fork or super heavy fork blades.

Dave Bohm
Bohemian

-----Original Message-----
From: framebuilders-bounces@phred.org
[mailto:framebuilders-bounces@phred.org] On Behalf Of Andrew R Stewart
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2005 6:39 PM
To: jmedlockclay@nettally.com; framebuilders@phred.org
Subject: Re: [Frame] Forks for touring bike

John- Get the heaviest blades you can. I hope you'll be using a 1 1/8"
steerer. Also OS main frame in a thicker gauge. Really, a few extra
onces of
frame weight will be unnoticed on a solid/secure bike laden with a
touring
load. Besides if you do any fun travelling the chance of the bike
getting
knocked about is likely. Andy S.
----- Original Message -----

From: "John Clay" <jmedlockclay@nettally.com>
To: <framebuilders@phred.org>
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2005 9:25 PM
Subject: [Frame] Forks for touring bike

> I need experienced advice as to steel fork blade wall thickness to
use
for
my camping bike.
>
> * 165#
> * pavement, cobbles, offroad
>
> Not a racer or gonzo rider - just a middlin tourist. Front and rear
panniers, loaded touring, 72 or 71 degree HT angle, 1.5" wide tires.
>
> What will flex enough but not too much?
>
> Thanks for the help.
> John Clay
>
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